Miracles at Christmas time in Catalonia

When young Catalan director Albert Serra first presented his newest movie earlier this year, an enchanted critic in Cannes spoke of “El Cant dels Ocells” as of “the last contemporary religious movie”. At that time the movie, named after a well-known Catalan Christmas carol, had already brought great international success to the formerly unknown Serra (www.andergraun.com). The movies heart and soul are the natural expressiveness of the very Catalan laymen cast as well as the magic found in the landscapes of the Emporda and the Pyrenees. Rarely anyone would have thought that the eccentric artist would succeed in fulfilling his dreams – but they were proven wrong as Serra’s optimism and self confidence helped him overcome all
obstacles. For his newest project, he is concentrating on the biblical story of the three Magi. Miracles at Christmas time – they still seem to happen in Catalonia.
Just as wonderfully a miracle is annually taking place in a tiny town named Bascara. The town, situated between Figueres and Girona is known for the dramatic change taking place each December. All of a sudden, its inhabitant can be seen wearing biblical dresses. The place is swarming with Roman soldiers and craftsmen. Adding to the general hustle and bustle are flocks of geese and ducks. A manger is erected in a cave at the banks of the Fluvia. Soon, a live ox and donkey move in, followed by a family expecting a truly blessed offspring. This is the live Nativity Scene of Bascaras – and every year thousands of visitors come to be amazed.
More than 30 years ago, an adolescent thought it would be a fine idea to turn the Old Town and the surrounding romantic landscape into the biggest live Nativity scene ever. Most likely, he had been inspired by the old tradition of house manger scenes. He had little money, but managed to get a group of friends to help him out and his creative and enthusiasm made up for any lack of professionalism. The grown-ups however, have a way of messing with the ideas of the young and his project was sourly endangered by the scheming and plotting of his parents, the town’s reverends and – the weather. Nothing could stop the teenagers though and together they turned Bascara into one big live manger scene, a “pessevre vivent” for the very first time. Today, Bascara’s inhabitants still like to tell the story about how the adolescents’ mothers and grandmothers broke into tears of joy upon beholding the wonders their children and grandchildren had worked. As the second staging took place, the formerly grumpy fathers also could resist no longer and were now very proud of their children. As a result, both the young and the old worked on the project in the years that followed and soon even the bishop of Girona had heard about Bascara and came to visit the manger scene – and to embark on a journey through time.
Ever since Bascaras proud inhabitants have erected the manger each year. What started out with a fancy idea soon became an avalanche of creativity. And a highly contagious avalanche it was, too, inspiring more and more parts of the town to join in as it went along. A youth’s idea has changed an entire village for the better, creating a new identity and special bonding between the generations. In its wake came excursions, contests in literature and concerts. The town blossomed and the entire region could draw profit. Other towns now try to follow – living mangers can now even be found in the regions around Madrid and for many children Christmas without a proper pessevre vivent just would not be Christmas.
Those wishing to see the original pessebre vivent: coming from Figueres, just follow the signs for Girona. The road is going to take you right through Bascara. There are plays at 7pm on the 21st of December, on December 25th to 28th, as well as on January 1st, 3rd, 4th and 6th.