Olive oil – green gold

The oil tree is one of the oldest and most fascinating trees that ever to have been cultivated. For over 7000 years it has been known and grown and was associated with wisdom and life. An olive tree (Olea europea) can well outlive humans as it may reach 2000 years of age. Gracefully the silver leafs whisper in the wind, telling stories of times now long gone by. The olive tree’s roots run deep and, stubbornly, it persists.
In the Mediterranean, olives and the healthy olive oil make for an important part of regional cuisine. Depending on climate, soil and ripeness of the olives used, the oil itself can taste spicy, mild, classy or fine, sometimes with a hint of almonds, but usually fruity with a mild and tinge of nuts. Catalan olive oil is especially mild, with a fine note of nuts and almonds.
The faster the oil is extracted from the fruit, the better the quality of the oil and the bigger the amount of components responsible for taste and the heart protecting properties of olive oil. Cold-pressed, mechanically extracted oils are known to be the best there is. These are called extra virgin or verge extra. Unfortunately, they come at a price. Buying good olive oil is thus a matter of trust as much as a matter of taste. We met a proper olive oil expert in Garriguella Marti. Clos Casa has been producing his own olive oil for many years – it is a bit of a family tradition. In accordance with the most modern findings and highest expectations in terms of quality, he produces whole food olive oil and fills it in noble, slim flasks that wear an etiquette reading “Clos de l a Torre – Oli D’Oliva Verge Extra”.
In Catalonia, olives are harvested throughout a period of about three months. Harvesting starts in November and carries on until later in February. As Marti tells us, the Tramuntana is a very natural helping hand during the harvesting time. One can basically sit and wait for the storm to rip the fruits from the trees which can then be collected for processing. Olives are sensitive fruits. If their skin is damaged ever so slightly, they start fermenting and are then useless for olive oil production. Lengthy storing times can also lead to fermentation. Therefore, it is very important that harvest and the actual process of olive oil-making are perfectly timed. Olives are not black or green depending on species. No, all olives start out green, then turn blue and black in the end, growing continuously as they change colour. Green olives yield less oil than black olives and this explains why green olive oil is even more expensive than oil made from black olives. However, green olive oil is also higher in quality as these olives have not been subject to the heavy winterly rains. Marti Clos Casas harvests in November and does not wait for the Tramuntana to do his job. Quite the contrary: Fruits that have fallen off are lost on him. He only uses fruits that have been plucked directly from the trees and the oil is extracted the very same day. The olives are gathered between 8 am and 5 pm – and then oil production starts and carries on until 9pm.

As the name suggests, during the procedure of cold-pressing is carried out under comparatively cold conditions. Temperatures must not exceed 29°C. Marti tries to keep temperatures at a constant 25°C and makes sure that 27°C is the maximal temperature. Consumers expect the highest quality – by now, there are oil and gourmet fairs where olive oils are tasted and tested as it usually only happens with fine wines. Olive oil comes in many colours. Green or golden, colour is not a way to measure quality. Hence the oil is poured into dark vials for testing so as not to let the colour influence the experts. For one litre of olive oil, it takes about 10 pounds of olives – and one old tree yields about 20 pounds per year, which equals three to four litres of oil.
Olive oil is, as are so many things in life, classy rather than massy.


CLOS DE LA TORRE
OLI D’OLIVA VERGE EXTRA
www.closdelatorre.com
Tel.: 972670899
17780 GARRIGUELLA
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www.cooperativagarriguella.com
Tel: 972 530 002
17780 GARRIGUELLA
Ctra. de Roses, s/n